Outward Exchange to Bratislava, Slovakia
27 August - 2 September, 2009
View from Castle, Bratislava, Slovakia
EXCHANGE DIRECTORS
Eric Woodward (Gold Coast) & Eva Frtala (Bratislava)
Friday 28 August (Brian H)   Views of Bratislava and the Danube There were 4 bridges that we could see over the river and the Parliament House waterfall looked nice. Our group gradually arrived, along with our guide Dagmar. She told us that Slovakia had a population of 5.4 million and Bratislava, with 430,000 people, was the Seat of Government for Slovakia, with one President, 150 members and 21 political parties. In 1991 the Soviet Army left and in 1993 Czechoslovakia split into Czech Republic and Slovakia.  Castle Bratislava We entered Bratislava Castle grounds by The Vienna Gate and Dagmar explained some of the history of the region from the Romans to the Slavs. Bratislava Castle started in 907 with the Crown Tower being added in 13th century. 1387-1437 saw radical reconstruction at the end of the Sigismund of Luxemburg era. From 1526 it was the Seat of Hungarian Monarchs and they moved to Bratislava Castle. During the reign of Maria Theresa (1740-80) the Castle changed to baroque residence. In 1811 the Castle burnt down and was reconstructed in 1953.  Clock Museum We passed St Martins Cathedral and a Holocaust Memorial and saw some 16th century Fortification Walls and the Sigismund Gate up by the Castle. Dagmar showed us the tallest building in Bratislava in 1900 (4 stories). We walked onto Hviezdoslavovo Square and saw the Opera House (1880) and fountain, Slovak Philharmonic Theatre, Carlton Hotel. We saw Rubberneck (Man at Work statue), plus a mime artist alongside; Schöner Naci (a past Conductor) and in the Hlavne Square was the Old City Hall (13th century) with a Napoleon cannon ball in it and a Napoleonic Soldier by a seat, and various stalls. We saw a statue of Andy Warhol at a Restaurant and nearby was a 3 level fountain with water for the birds, people and dogs and on 1st September each year, the fountain flows with wine for the people.   “Man at Work”  Andy Warhol   L: Fountain for birds, people and dogs R: Schöner Naci salutes Exchange Director Eva We saw where Mozart had played and a Memorial to Franz Liszt, and Dagmar pointed out a couple of gypsies to highlight our awareness of pickpockets as we made our way around to Michaels Gate and Tower. We saw the Narrowest House in Bratislava, and ‘Zero Kilometre’, which listed the distances to 29 world Capitals and went on through Foregate. Other buildings in the area were The Trinitarian Church (18th century), Franciscan Church and Monastery - oldest church in Bratislava (13th century), Capuchin Church and WWII Memorial for the uprising in 1944. There was a plaque to Jozef Murgaš, the Inventor of Radio Telegraphy and a Scientist, Priest and Patriot.  Enjoying Lunch Our final stop was at the Primatial Palace (1778-81), now the Seat of the Mayor. The fresco on the front gable had 320,000 tiles in 60 shades and in its courtyard was a statue of St George and the Dragon. The Clock Tower of the Old Town Hall overlooked the courtyard of the New Town Hall. President Martin met up with the group and we were escorted into the Primatial Palace, where we were welcomed by Mayor Andrej Ďurkovský (through a translator) and given a glass of wine. After Eric spoke the Mayor left and guide Linda showed us the six beautiful tapestries relating to the Hero and Leandros legend, which were woven in the early 17th century in Mortlake in the UK.  Mayor Mayor Andrej Ďurkovský, interpreter, Exchange Director Erc, Bratislava Club President Martin We were fortunate to see the Chapel of St Ladislaus, which had three altars and many paintings and a beautifully painted ceiling mural. We saw the Mirror Hall, which was used for several purposes, and saw some of the portraits of Hapsburger Dynasty, plus first owner Cardinal Jozef Batthyány. We had lunch at Cafe Restaurant Archa then some free time to wander until 4.00pm when we met near the Opera House. Bety and Tony arrived to collect us and we went to visit Bety's sister, Rozali.   Exchanging gifts  Gold Coast perform   Bratislava's turn... 
What a magic first day we were privileged to spend in this exciting city.
Saturday 29 August (Shirley)  Ceramic Shop in Pezinok We then met up with our group for a tour of a Viniculture Museum with the largest collection of wine presses in the Carpathian region dating back to the 17th Century, some of which at that time cost more than a small house. A block press from 1608 was 6 metres in length.  Viniculture Museum  Testing our sense of smell  Group with ED and guide It was the woman who did the manual work using very heavy equipment. The present wine maker consumes 2 litres of wine a day.  Tasting the vino.....! In the Market Square there was a bean soup competition under way, which takes place once a year - lucky we were there. We were given a bowl and a slice of bread and then had to choose a soup from one of the makers. It was rather wet, but that didn't stop a group of singers performing some bawdy folk songs - men and women - with the men in wigs and skirts; very entertaining.  One of many Bean Soup stalls in the contest  Colourful entertainment Later in the afternoon we attended a performance of local pensioner talent of traditional songs. Some of our hosts were in the group and it was most enjoyable.  Local Folk Ensemble  Dinner with our Pezinok friends We finished the day with the people from Pezinok having a meal in a local restaurant. A fun night and a great day.
Sunday 30 August - Boat trip to Devín (Dennis)   Church and separate bell tower The wooden bell tower beside the church was also constructed in the 1500's. The bell had an interesting history; originally cast in late 1400 it was removed and hidden from the invading Turkish army. Apparently any iron they could appropriate they melted down for guns. The bell remained hidden (lost) until the 1800's when it was exposed by pigs rooting around in a wheat field. The altar in the church was carved from one piece of stone 5 metres by 3.5 metres - very impressive!  Intricate detail on the altar  Loudspeaker in centre of picture We were told that on 31/12/1965 the popular local priest was murdered - he was 53 years old. The church is surrounded by vineyards but they are now being converted to building blocks. A loudspeaker was still attached to a street light pole, a chilling reminder of the Communist times. Returning to Pezinok we passed through the village of Grinava, where our host Milan was born in 1948.  The new and the old ... Our tour of Pezinok also took in the Catholic and Protestant churches, old Rathaus (now the Police Station), the current Rathaus dated 1650 and the Memorial to Plague victims.  Pezinok town centre  Leaving on the boat cruise At 2.00pm we all headed to Bratislava to join the rest of the exchange members on a 1 hour boat trip on the Danube to Devín and the site of an impressive ancient castle.
Devín Castle is situated at the confluence of the Danube and Morava rivers; it held a very strategic position high on a 212 metre cliff. Building of the castle was started in the 13th C, it was added to in the 15th C and destroyed by Napoleon I in 1809. The views from the top were spectacular and the area was a popular (and dangerous) place where many attempts to escape the communist regime were made. On the other side of the Morava River was Austria, a free country.  Castle Devín  Memorial to those who died attempting to cross the river There are panoramic views across the vast ruins to Austria, an excellent museum, live demonstrations (in period costume) of life as it was and a unique castle well with a depth of 55 metres which grants you a wish (?) when you send a cupful of water to the bottom.....   Trying a medieval sword for size! What are they doing...  ...they're looking down the well of course! A bus was at Devín to collect us and take us back to Bratislava.
That evening Brian and Beth's hosts, Bety and Toni, presided over dinner for 8 people on their newly finished patio (also present were our hosts Milan, Maria, Suzanne and her boyfriend Gelyüm, Barbara and I.)  Another great night with our Slovakian friends An excellent meal with lots of homemade wines and champagne (plus the usual shots!) was enjoyed by all. A wonderful finish to a wonderful day.
Monday 31 August - Day 1 of Coach trip to the Lower Tatras (Lorraine O)  Town of Kremnica The artifacts were very well displayed. Jeromy Roth had a friendship medal illustrating Kremnica Square. Matt described the Coat of Arms or Crest of the city. There were so many wonderful items to look at here; a second half of the 18th Century illustrated book, a metal crucifix, writing paper from the Charter of King Robert of Anjon dated 17 November 1328, coins, a clock manufactured here from 1775, beautifully decorated pottery that is world famous, intricate lace pieces made by bobbins of the 19th Century, photos and musical instruments. The second room had special clothes that had been worn in these times and hammers with velvet covered handles for Kings and VIPs to use. There was a portrait of Emperor of Lorraine pained in 1740, intricate silk flags embroided that were used for the occasion of his visit to the area.  Old painting There were paintings of families who worked in the mines here; even children went into the mines to work. Gold was discovered here in the 11th Century by a hunter. There were samples of rocks and examples of mining equipment which was also very interesting to see. Outside in another area of exhibits we could purchase blank coins and when hit very hard with a hammer a pattern would imprint onto one of the old style coins - some worked and some did not. You could also buy replices of the coins which most of us did.  Creating a coin at the Mint  Geographical Centre of Europe We then drove on to the point that is the geographical centre of Europe. How exciting to be there. We took about 15 minutes to take photos and celebrate with Champagne and did a group photo shoot.  Slovak Historic Village of Martin It is a re-created village containing many houses found in different regions of Slovakia. We had our lunch in a very interesting and unique inn. Lunch was delicious: a potato pancake with meat filling, coleslaw and beetroot. The beer was also good! We then all took our time to wander as we wished through the village and the church especially was so interesting. It was a Roman Catholic church and dated back to 1792. I was lucky enough to be there when Brian McK sang and one of our hosts played the organ which still works - it was very moving. Of course us girls had to find the souvenier shop and a few bits and pieces were purchased.  Spending up on souvenirs.... Back in the bus and on our way with much singing and laughing. Martin was the ambulance officer providing ‘medicine’ for those who were feeling unhealthy on the way: much frivolity was happening in the back of the bus - no names will be mentioned of course!  A picture paints a thousand words! We saw stunning scenery along the way to Bojnice, a famous Slovak Spa and also the site of the Haunted Castle where we were going later that night.  Bojnice Castle  Dining at “The Good Fairy Restaurant” We had dinner at “The Good Fairy Restaurant” with nice food and good service. Then we left for the Castle. Unfortunately when we got there they said we had no booking and it was closed but after much persuasion from Eva, our ED from Bratislava, and a long wait for the ‘ghosts’ to arrive, we were able to enter. I had to smile at the fact that after you pay an entry fee you then have to pay to take photos! Tuesday 1 September - Day 2 of Coach trip to the Lower Tatras (Patricia)  Elitex Hotel Medicine Man Martin who with Rona and his Esky sat on the back seat, advised us that we could not call on him for refreshments till 16.30. The journey took an hour and a half passing through very lush countryside with fields of maize. The ski fields on the mountains were very noticeable in between the beautiful trees and one could picture these being very populated in the winter when the snow came.  Mountain slopes prepared for the ski season Farmers had allotments and were working the fields digging potatoes. Passed through Josevene Town where we saw very traditional houses with sloped roofs and planter boxes of colourful flowers on the windows sills. We had a lot of laughs as Lorraine was the only one with a map to where we were going so it was passed around several times (at a price of course).  Enjoying one of the pools! Most of us were satisfied with a relaxing time in the pools but other members had massages and pedicures. After the limited time one was allowed to enjoy the temperature of these pools we succumbed to a lovely cup of coffee before going out to see the beautiful surrounds of this magnificent complex.  Lunch at Rajecká Lesná We stopped at a lovely restaurant for lunch where our Slovakian friends sang a toast in celebration of their independence. One could not but admire and respect what they have achieved over the last few years since becoming independent. It certainly couldn't have been easy!  Slovensky Bethlehem A retired man carved the display from the local Linden trees to record the birth of Christ and the history of the past for future generations He was offered money by the Swiss and Germans but decided to donate it to the Church if they built a hall to house it for people to enjoy. It was a magnificent display of a craftsman's work and one could have spent so long identifying the different pieces.  Church - Bethlehem The Priest was also present while we were there and invited us to his house to share a drink
Brian M from our group sang “Ave Maria” and the Priest presented and blessed him with a wooden crucifix, which I'm sure Brian will treasure. Scandal on the bus as after leaving Slovensky Bethlehem 3 women and Brian M were seen lying on the grass together. Was it relaxation or what!!   Old Roman sign inside Tatra Hotel 
As the coach was parked by a park Medicine Man Martin decided it would be a good place to open the champagne he had been saving for the celebration of our journey.  One last toast before heading back to Bratislava Trencin Castle in background Bratislava Friendship members sang traditional songs on the last leg of our journey. They had beautiful harmony and in fact Brian M asked them to record the songs and send a C.D. to him - I hope he makes a copy for us.  Wednesday 2 September - Bratislava/Prague (Marcia)  Dinner Cruise in Prague  Spectacular city lights About 1 hour was spent in the locks - not much to see but grey brick walls. After dinner, up on the top deck there was musical entertainment. A perfect night for observing all the river landmarks, with churches and the castle illuminated. It was also an astronomical phenomenon - Mars lying directly under the moon. This will not re-occur for another 200 years. [Thank you Elisabeth for informing this].  “I See the Moon” (and isn't that Mars too...?) Whilst waiting at the lock [on the return] our boat group [well mostly Australians, of course] entertained the next boat with Waltzing Matilda - led by Brian M - with manual actions too! By the look on the faces of our boat's instrumentalists, I do not think that they approved - they immediately commenced their program again. Thursday 3 September - Prague (Ann)  The wonderful Astronomical Clock  A favourite spot for weddings..... From the town square we could see Saint Nicholas Church, the oldest building on the square. The old town square castle was renovated in the 20th Century, and many other lovely old buildings surround the square.  Engrossed in the tour I stand and wonder what this lovely place would look like covered in snow.....  Preparing for the Papal visit 
Friday 4 September - (Barbara W)  Leaving Hotel Seifert in Prague  Prague Station |
Looking forward to our second week - click to go to Halle page.
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